A history and detailed account ~ Gems

The History of Gem Cuts & Settings in Britain

From royal treasuries to velvet-lined trinket boxes, gemstones have long whispered stories of power, love, and identity. In Britain, their use has evolved over the centuries, shaped by status, fashion, and craftsmanship.

Tudor & Elizabethan Eras (1500s–1600s)

Who owned gems? Royalty and the very highest nobility. Gemstones were considered status symbols and political tools.

Popular gemstones: Diamonds (uncut or point-cut), rubies, emeralds, sapphires, pearls, garnets.

Cuts & styles: Most gems were cabochon-cut (smooth, rounded), as advanced faceting didn’t yet exist. Some were table-cut (flat on top), point-cut (pyramid-like), or rose-cut (flat underneath, domed with triangular facets on top).

Settings: Heavy gold, closed-back settings, sometimes with coloured foils behind the stones to enhance their colour. Jewels were sewn onto clothing or worn in elaborate hairpieces.

Famous gems: Queen Elizabeth I was gifted the Black Prince’s Ruby, now part of the Imperial State Crown.

Georgian Era (1714–1830)

Popular gemstones: Diamonds, topaz, garnet, amethyst, citrine, paste (glass imitation).

Cuts: Rose cut, old mine cut, table cut — designed for flickering candlelight.

Settings: Silver settings over gold were common (silver reflects light better). Closed-back settings with foil behind stones still popular. Cluster styles emerged.

Styles: Portrait miniatures and sentimental jewellery with hairwork; “lover’s eye” lockets. Jewels were symbolic, often spelling out names using acrostic gems (e.g. “REGARD” = Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond).

Victorian Era (1837–1901)

Early Victorian / Romantic period: Floral and serpent motifs; turquoise, amethyst, and garnet were in fashion. Snake rings (symbolising eternal love) were popularised by Prince Albert’s engagement ring to Queen Victoria.

Mid to late Victorian: Mourning jewellery became prominent after Albert’s death. Use of jet, onyx, black enamel, and hairwork.

Cuts: Early use of old mine and rose cuts, evolving toward more symmetrical old European cuts.

Settings: More refined goldwork; collet settings (metal rim surrounds the stone), prong settings emerge. Brooches, lockets, and rings abundant.

Edwardian Era (1901–1910)

Popular gemstones: Diamonds, pearls, aquamarines, amethysts.

Cuts & settings: Delicate milgrain detailing (tiny bead-like edges), filigree metalwork, platinum settings allowed for lighter, lace-like designs.

Style: Feminine, airy, with a focus on elegance and light. Garland style jewellery — bows, swags, and floral motifs.

Art Deco (1920s–1930s)

Cuts: Emerald cut, Asscher cut, marquise, and calibre-cut stones (small stones cut to fit exactly together).

Gemstones: Onyx, carnelian, jade, sapphires, diamonds. Bold colour contrasts (e.g. black and white).

Settings: Geometric, modern designs using platinum and white gold. Cocktail rings, long necklaces, and stylish brooches flourished.

Mid-Century (1940s–1970s)

Cuts: Introduction of brilliant-cut diamond (1950s), and increased precision in faceting. Cluster rings and solitaires became popular.

Settings: Four-prong solitaire mounts; engraved and pierced shoulders; illusion settings (metal designed to make stones appear larger).

Gem trends: Aquamarine, citrine, and turquoise were favoured in the 1960s–70s.

Present Day

Modern jewellers revive vintage settings like bezel, halo, and gypsy mounts. Rose-cut diamonds, coloured stones, and ethical sourcing are returning to favour. Many pieces nod lovingly to the past — just like those in The House of Gemma.

About various gemstones

These gems represent a rich spectrum of colour, provenance, and historical allure—and beautifully mirror the themes and treasures of The House of Gemma. I will be adding more gemstones as time goes by.

Agate

Colour(s): Multicolour banding: brown, white, red, grey, pink, green, blue.

Origin: Brazil, Uruguay, India, USA, Germany.

Birth month: May (alternative), but also sometimes linked to Gemini.

Famous use: Victorian mourning jewellery, Roman intaglios, ancient Greek cameos.

Hardness: 6.5–7 (Mohs).

Amethyst

Colour(s): Varying shades of violet, lavender, pink, and green.

Origin: Major sources include Brazil, Uruguay, Zambia, Russia, and the U.S.

Birth month: February.

Famous use: A striking amethyst necklace gifted by Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor.

Hardness: 7 (Mohs scale).

Aquamarine

Colour(s): Pale blue, sea-green, light teal.

Origin: Brazil (major source), Nigeria, Pakistan, Madagascar, Mozambique.

Birth month: March.

Famous use: Queen Elizabeth II’s aquamarine tiara. Frequently worn in antique and vintage rings; prized in Edwardian and Art Deco settings. A favourite stone among European jewellers for its water-clear brilliance and understated elegance.

Hardness: 7.5–8 (Mohs).

Note: Believed to calm tempers and ensure safe travel across water.

Citrine

Colour(s): Lemon yellow, golden amber, occasionally greenish-yellow.

Origin: Predominantly in Brazil; also found in Spain, Madagascar, and Russia.

Birth month: November.

Famous use: Often used in Victorian and Art Deco pieces (traditionally called “merchant’s stone”).

Hardness: 7 (Mohs).

Diamond

Colour(s): Colourless, yellow, blue, pink, green, brown.

Origin: Historically India; now South Africa, Botswana, Russia, Canada.

Birth month: April.

Famous use: Cullinan Diamond (3106 ct), South Africa, now part of the British Crown Jewels. Golconda diamonds (e.g., Koh-i‑Noor, Hope Diamond) from India's historic Golconda region.

Hardness: 10 (Mohs; hardest mineral).

Emerald

Colour(s): Intense green (sometimes with bluish undertones).

Origin: Colombia, Zambia, Brazil, Zimbabwe.

Birth month: May.

Famous use: Iconic emerald and diamond tiara worn by Crown Princess Mary of Denmark; the 75-carat Rockefeller Emerald.

Hardness: 7.5–8 (Mohs).

Garnet

Colour(s): Deep red (most common), orange, green (tsavorite), pink, brown, purple, black — nearly every colour but blue.

Origin: India, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Madagascar, Russia, Namibia, USA.

Birth month: January.

Famous use: Bohemian garnet jewellery of the 18th–19th centuries; found in many ancient burial sites worldwide.

Hardness: 6.5–7.5 (Mohs), depending on variety.

Jade

Colour(s): Green (most prized), white, lavender, yellow, orange, brown, black.

Origin: China, Myanmar (Burma), Guatemala, New Zealand, Russia.

Birth month: March (alternative birthstone in some traditions).

Famous use: Ancient Chinese ceremonial carvings, imperial ornaments, Maori hei-tiki pendants.

Hardness: 6–7 (Mohs) — varies depending on whether it is jadeite or nephrite.

Moonstone

Colour(s): Milky white, cream, grey, peach, with a shimmering blue or rainbow glow (adularescence).

Origin: Sri Lanka, India, Myanmar, Madagascar.

Birth month: June (alternative).

Famous use: Beloved in Art Nouveau jewellery, especially by René Lalique.

Hardness: 6–6.5 (Mohs).

Note: Thought to enhance intuition and protect emotional well-being.

Morganite

Colour(s): Pale pink to peach-blush.

Origin: Primarily Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, and the USA.

Birth month: Not a traditional birthstone, but often associated with October (alongside Tourmaline and Opal) due to its gentle pink hue.

Famous use: Worn frequently in rose gold engagement rings for its romantic appearance.

Hardness: 7.5–8 (Mohs).

Note: Discovered in Madagascar in 1910 and named in honour of financier and gem collector J.P. Morgan, Morganite is part of the beryl family — making it a pink cousin to emerald and aquamarine. Its delicate colour and luminosity evoke love, emotional healing, and divine femininity. It is said to calm the heart and awaken compassion.

Onyx

Colour(s): Typically black, but can appear in layered bands of white, grey, and brown.

Origin: Brazil, India, the USA (notably Arizona), Uruguay.

Birth month: Traditionally linked to December, and occasionally August as an alternate stone.

Famous use: Used extensively in Art Deco jewellery — from rings to cameos and mourning pieces. Worn by Queen Victoria during her mourning years.

Hardness: 6.5–7 (Mohs).

Note: Onyx is a variety of chalcedony, prized for its striking black depth and smooth, polished appearance. In Victorian times, it symbolised remembrance and was often carved into cameos or lockets worn by grieving loved ones. Today, it also represents protection, strength, and grounding — making it a quietly powerful gemstone with poetic appeal.

Opal

Colour(s): White, black, crystal; stunning iridescent play-of-colour.

Origin: Australia (main source), Ethiopia, Mexico, USA.

Birth month: October.

Famous use: The Andamooka Opal worn by Queen Elizabeth II.

Hardness: 5.5–6.5 (Mohs).

Paraiba Tourmaline

Colour(s): Brilliant neon blue, sometimes greenish-blue.

Origin: First found in Paraíba, Brazil; now also discovered in Mozambique & Nigeria.

Birth month: October.

Famous use: Featured in high-end pieces by Tiffany & Co. and Cartier.

Hardness: 7–7.5 (Mohs).

Quartz (All Colours)

Colour(s): Clear (Rock Crystal), white (Milky Quartz), purple (Amethyst), pink (Rose Quartz), grey-brown (Smoky Quartz), green (Prasiolite), yellow (Citrine), and more.

Origin: Brazil, Madagascar, USA, Russia, India, Switzerland, Austria.

Birth month: April (Rock Crystal as an alternative to diamond); other colours also appear as alternates.

Famous use: Ancient Roman crystal carvings; used extensively in Art Deco jewellery; Queen Mary’s crystal necklaces.

Hardness: 7 (Mohs).

Ruby

Colour(s): Vivid red, sometimes with pink or purplish-red tones.

Origin: Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Mozambique.

Birth month: July.

Famous use: The 8-carat Burmese Ruby Tiara owned by Elizabeth Taylor; the Burmese ruby necklace worn by Grace Kelly.

Hardness: 9 (Mohs).

Rutilated Quartz

Colour(s): Clear to smoky quartz with golden, coppery, or silver needle-like inclusions (rutile).

Origin: Brazil, Madagascar, Australia, USA, Norway, Pakistan.

Birth month: Not officially a birthstone, but often favoured by those drawn to spiritual clarity and transformation.

Famous use: Popular in metaphysical jewellery and mid-century artisan pieces; also seen in bespoke designer jewellery for its striking inclusions.

Hardness: 6.5–7 (Mohs)

Sapphire

Colour(s): Deep blue, but also pink, yellow, green, and teal; colorless variants known as white sapphires.

Origin: Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Thailand, Madagascar, Australia, Montana (USA).

Birth month: September.

Famous use: Princess Diana’s sapphire engagement ring (later worn by Kate Middleton); the “Stuart Sapphire” in the British Crown Jewels.

Hardness: 9 (Mohs).

Smoky Quartz

Colour(s): Brown, grey-brown, translucent taupe, deep smoky black.

Origin: Brazil, Switzerland, Scotland (notably in the Cairngorm Mountains), Madagascar, USA.

Birth month: November (alternative to topaz and citrine).

Famous use: Traditional Scottish Highland brooches and kilt pins; Queen Victoria popularised Cairngorm quartz.

Hardness: 7 (Mohs).

Topaz

Colour(s): Golden yellow, blue, pink, clear.

Origin: Brazil, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Russia.

Birth month: November.

Famous use: The Topaz of Santa Isabel, part of the Brazilian Crown Jewels.

Hardness: 8 (Mohs).

Turquoise

Colour(s): Sky blue, blue-green, greenish.

Origin: Iran (ancient mines), USA (Arizona, New Mexico), Tibet, Egypt.

Birth month: December (alternative birthstone).

Famous use: The Egyptian New Kingdom burial ornaments, and Native American jewellery.

Hardness: 5–6 (Mohs).

Forthcoming, the accompanying short story collection by Faith McCord.